How to Hang Kitchen Curtains Properly

Kitchen curtains filter light, add privacy, and make the space feel finished. But hanging them wrong — too short, crooked, or poorly positioned — undermines all of that. Here's how to do it right.

Choose the Right Curtain Length

Kitchen curtains have more length options than other rooms because function varies.

Sill-length curtains end at the windowsill. Best for windows above sinks or countertops where longer fabric would interfere with daily tasks. Also works when you want maximum light and the window itself is the focus.

Apron-length curtains extend 4-6 inches below the sill. Provides slightly more coverage and visual weight than sill-length while staying clear of work surfaces.

Floor-length curtains work in kitchens with windows that don't sit above counters or appliances. Creates a more formal, finished look. Make sure they stop about 1/2 inch above the floor — actual floor contact in kitchens means constant dirt and moisture exposure.

Cafe curtains cover only the bottom half or two-thirds of the window. Mounted at mid-window height, they provide privacy while maximizing natural light from the upper window portion.

Measuring tip: measure from where the rod will sit (not the window frame) down to your desired endpoint. For sill-length, measure to the sill. For floor-length, measure to 1/2 inch above floor level.

Position the Curtain Rod Correctly

Rod placement affects how the entire window area looks and functions.

Height: mount the rod 4-6 inches above the window frame. This makes the window appear taller and the ceiling feel higher. If you have upper cabinets close to the window, mount as high as possible without hitting the cabinet bottom — even 2-3 inches above the frame helps.

For rooms with 9+ foot ceilings and no cabinet interference, you can go even higher — 6-8 inches above the frame or closer to the ceiling for dramatic effect.

Width: extend the rod 3-6 inches beyond the window frame on each side. When curtains are open, they'll clear the glass completely instead of blocking light at the edges. The window also appears wider.

In tight spaces with corners or appliances close to the window, extend as far as practically possible — even 2-3 inches helps.

Cafe curtain exception: for cafe curtains, the rod mounts at mid-window height (typically one-third down from the top of the window frame).

Gather Your Hardware and Tools

What you'll need:

• Curtain rod appropriate for your window width;
• Mounting brackets (usually included with the rod);
• Screws (usually included);
• Wall anchors if not mounting into studs;
• Drill and drill bits;
• Level (absolutely essential);
• Pencil for marking;
• Tape measure;
• Stud finder (helpful but not required)

For tile backsplashes: use a carbide or diamond drill bit and go slowly to avoid cracking tiles.

Mark Your Bracket Positions

Precision here prevents crooked curtains and re-drilling.

Step 1. Find the center point of your window frame and mark it lightly with pencil.

Step 2. Measure out from center to determine where the rod will end on each side (window width divided by 2, plus your desired extension of 3-6 inches).

Step 3. Measure up from the top of the window frame to your chosen mounting height (4-6+ inches). Mark this point on both sides.

Step 4. Place your level across both marks to verify they're perfectly horizontal. Adjust if needed. A crooked rod is immediately obvious and looks terrible.

Step 5. Account for bracket width. Most curtain rod brackets are 2-4 inches wide. Make sure your marked positions accommodate the full bracket without hitting cabinets, corners, or other obstacles.

Install the Brackets

Check for studs at your marked bracket positions using a stud finder. If you hit a stud, you can screw directly into it — ideal for support.

If there's no stud (common), use wall anchors rated for the weight. Drywall alone won't support a curtain rod long-term. Use toggle bolts or molly bolts for most applications.

Drill pilot holes at your marked positions. For drywall, use a bit slightly smaller than your screw diameter. For tile, use the carbide bit and drill slowly with light pressure.

Install anchors if needed, then attach brackets using the provided screws. Tighten firmly but don't over-tighten — you can crack drywall or strip the anchor.

For rods longer than 6 feet or heavy curtains, add a center support bracket to prevent sagging. Better to have three well-supported points than two that slowly pull loose.

Hang the Curtains

How you hang curtains depends on their header style.

Grommet curtains: slide the rod through the metal grommets. Distribute the fabric evenly across the rod width for consistent folds.

Rod pocket curtains: slide the rod through the sewn pocket at the top of the curtain. The fabric will gather naturally.

Tab top or back tab curtains: thread the rod through the fabric loops. These create a more relaxed, gathered appearance.

Ring clips: attach clips to the curtain top and hang the rings on the rod. Most adjustable and easiest to remove for washing.

Adjust the curtains so they hang evenly on both sides. For panels that meet in the middle, make sure they overlap slightly (1-2 inches) when closed to prevent light gaps.

Common Kitchen-Specific Considerations

Windows above sinks: curtains can't hang into the sink area. Use sill-length or cafe curtains, or install tiebacks to permanently hold curtains to the sides.

Near range or cooktop: keep fabric at least 12 inches away from heat sources for fire safety. If the window is very close to the range, shorter curtains or no curtains might be safer.

Grease and moisture exposure: kitchens are humid with airborne grease. Choose washable curtain fabrics and plan to clean them more frequently than curtains in other rooms. Polyester blends handle this better than delicate fabrics.

Window operation: make sure curtains don't prevent you from opening windows. Test this before finalizing the installation—pull curtains fully to the sides and verify you can still operate the window.

Styling and Final Adjustments

Steam or iron curtains before hanging if they arrived wrinkled. Once hung, minor wrinkles will fall out naturally over a few days from the weight of the fabric.

Adjust the length if needed. If curtains are slightly too long, you can hem them or use hem tape. If too short, there's no easy fix — this is why accurate measuring matters.

Add tiebacks or holdbacks if you want curtains permanently or frequently pulled to the sides. Position them about two-thirds down from the rod for classic draping, or at mid-height for a more casual look.

Layer with blinds or shades if you need light control beyond what curtains provide. Install the blinds inside the window frame first, then add curtains on the rod outside the frame.

Testing and Troubleshooting

After installation, test everything:

• Open and close the curtains several times. They should slide smoothly without catching.
• Check that the rod is level by looking at how the curtains hang—uneven hem lines indicate a crooked rod.
• Verify adequate clearance around sinks, counters, or appliances.
• Test window operation with curtains both open and closed.

If the rod is slightly crooked: loosen one bracket, adjust its position minimally, and re-tighten. Use the level to verify.

If the rod sags in the middle: add a center support bracket.

If brackets feel loose: you probably need better wall anchors. Remove the bracket, install proper toggle bolts or molly bolts, and remount.

Quick Installation Checklist

• [✔] Measured window dimensions accurately
• [✔] Chose appropriate curtain length for your kitchen setup
• [✔] Determined rod height (4-6+ inches above frame)
• [✔] Calculated rod width (window width + 6-12 inches total extension)
• [✔] Gathered all necessary tools and hardware
• [✔] Marked bracket positions with level verification
• [✔] Installed wall anchors if not mounting into studs
• [✔] Mounted brackets securely
• [✔] Hung curtains and adjusted for even appearance
• [✔] Tested curtain operation and window access
• [✔] Checked clearances around work surfaces

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Mounting the rod too low makes the window look smaller and the kitchen feel more cramped. Even a few inches higher makes a noticeable difference.

Skipping the level results in obviously crooked curtains. Your eye will catch this even if you can't consciously identify the problem.

Using inadequate anchors causes the rod to sag or pull out of the wall within weeks. If you're not hitting studs, use proper wall anchors rated for the weight.

Not accounting for curtain stacking width means curtains block the window even when "open" because there's nowhere for the fabric to go.

Choosing the wrong length for your kitchen layout — floor-length curtains that drag through the sink, or too-short curtains that look unfinished.

Forgetting about heat sources and positioning curtains too close to the range or oven where they could become a fire hazard.

The Bottom Line

Hanging kitchen curtains properly comes down to accurate measuring, correct rod placement, and secure installation. Mount the rod 4-6 inches above the window frame and extend it 3-6 inches on each side. Choose curtain length appropriate to your kitchen layout — sill-length near work surfaces, floor-length where space allows.

Use a level for marking bracket positions, proper wall anchors if not hitting studs, and test everything before calling it finished. Get these basics right and your kitchen curtains will look intentional and function smoothly for years.