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Your living room curtains do more work than you probably think about. They're controlling light, providing privacy, insulating against temperature changes, absorbing sound, and-yeah-making the room look either finished or like you gave up halfway through decorating. The problem most people have isn't finding curtains. It's choosing the right ones when there are approximately seven thousand options and half the advice online contradicts the other half. So let's cut through it. Here's what actually works in real living rooms, based on current trends, practical considerations, and what won't make you cringe in two years. Layer Different Curtain Types for Depth and Function Single-layer curtains are fine. They work. But layering creates this visual richness that flat, single panels just can't match. Start with sheer curtains closest to the window — voile, linen sheers, or lightweight cotton. These filter harsh sunlight during the day while maintaining privacy and letting the room feel bright. Then add heavier drapes in front. Velvet for luxury, medium-weight linen for casual elegance, or blackout-lined panels if you need serious light control. The combination gives you options throughout the day. Morning? Pull back the heavy drapes, keep the sheers closed for soft diffused light. Evening movie? Close everything for a proper viewing experience. Hosting? Layer both partially open for texture and dimension. This works especially well in living rooms with large windows or sliding glass doors. The sheer layer prevents that fishbowl effect while the outer layer adds color and weight. Floor-Length Panels Create Height (Even in Small Rooms) Here's something designers figured out decades ago that still isn't common knowledge: curtains should touch the floor. Or go past it. The floating hem thing — where curtains stop two or three inches above the floor — makes ceilings look lower and rooms feel unfinished. It's that weird in-between length that doesn't read as intentional. For standard 8-foot ceilings, hang your rod as close to the ceiling as possible and let the curtains just kiss the floor or break by half an inch. This vertical line draws the eye up and makes the room feel taller. If you want to get fancy, let them puddle — extra fabric that pools on the floor. Adds drama and luxury. Though if you have pets or kids who'll step on them constantly, maybe skip the puddle and just go with a slight break. The exception: if you have radiators or heating vents below the window, stopping at the sill makes more practical sense. Function over aesthetics sometimes wins. Velvet Curtains for Instant Luxury Without Trying Too Hard Velvet's having a moment that's stretched into multiple years now, and for good reason — the texture immediately elevates whatever room it's in. Current trend leans toward earthy velvets rather than jewel tones. Think terracotta, burnt sienna, deep olive, sage green, or that dusty mauve that somehow doesn't look like your grandmother's bathroom. Though if jewel tones work with your existing décor, emerald and sapphire are still perfectly valid choices. Velvet drapes heavy, which means beautiful folds and excellent light blocking. The fabric also absorbs sound better than smooth materials, so if your living room has echo problems (hardwood floors, minimal soft furniture), velvet curtains help deaden that. Downside: they're expensive and require more careful maintenance than cotton or polyester blends. Most velvet curtains need dry cleaning or very gentle hand washing. They also show dust more obviously because of how light catches the pile. But if you can swing the cost and upkeep, nothing quite matches velvet for creating that "expensive room" vibe with relatively minimal effort. Linen Curtains When You Want Relaxed Sophistication Linen is the opposite of velvet — casual, textured, imperfect. And that's exactly why it works so well in modern living rooms. Heavy linen curtains (400gsm or higher) have this natural drape with wrinkles built in. You're not supposed to iron them to stiffness. The crinkles are part of the aesthetic—lived-in, relaxed, like the room is comfortable being itself. Colors run mostly neutral: oatmeal, natural beige, warm grey, soft white, occasionally a muted blue or green. Linen doesn't typically come in bright colors because the fabric's appeal is that organic, understated quality. Light filtration with linen is moderate — it softens sunlight without blocking it entirely. If you need blackout capability, get linen curtains with an added blackout lining. Best of both worlds: natural texture facing the room, functional light blocking built in. Linen wrinkles when you wash it (and you can machine wash most linen curtains, which is convenient). Hang them while slightly damp and the wrinkles relax as they dry. Or just embrace the wrinkles. That's kind of the point. Bold Color as an Accent in Otherwise Neutral Rooms If your living room is mostly neutrals — grey sofa, white walls, wood floors — curtains are a low-risk place to introduce color. Saffron yellow creates warmth without being aggressive. Deep teal adds richness. Rust orange brings unexpected energy. These aren't timid pastels; they're saturated, confident colors that anchor the space. The trick is committing. Timid color in curtains just looks like you couldn't decide, so you picked something halfway. If you're going with bold curtains, go fully bold. Floor-to-ceiling panels in a color that makes a statement. This works best when everything else in the room is relatively restrained. Let the curtains be the intentional pop of personality rather than competing with patterned throw pillows, bright artwork, and a colorful rug all fighting for attention. Also consider the light in your room. North-facing rooms (cooler, bluer light) benefit from warm curtain colors — oranges, reds, warm yellows. South-facing rooms (warmer light) can handle cooler colors — blues, greens, purples — without the space feeling cold. Sheer Curtains Alone for Minimal, Light-Filled Spaces Not every living room needs heavy drapes. Sometimes sheer curtains by themselves are the right call. White linen sheers, cotton voile, or semi-transparent polyester blends provide daytime privacy (people can't see in clearly) while maximizing natural light. The room stays bright and airy, which works particularly well in smaller living rooms where heavy curtains might feel oppressive. This approach leans Scandinavian or minimalist — clean, simple, functional. It won't give you much light control for movie watching or afternoon naps on the couch, but if that's not a priority, why add unnecessary fabric? Sheer-only curtains work best in spaces where you're not worried about privacy at night (perhaps you have blinds or shutters as backup) or in rooms where curtains are more decorative than functional. Hang them high and wide to maximize the window opening. Let them billow slightly — sheer curtains look best with a little movement and texture rather than pulled completely taut. Mix Patterns with Solid Curtains for Visual Interest If you're already working with patterned furniture or a busy rug, solid curtains balance everything out. But if your living room is mostly solid colors, patterned curtains add complexity without requiring you to replace furniture. Patterns currently working well: Abstract watercolor or painterly designs that read as texture from a distance but have detail up close Oversized florals in modern colorways (not your grandmother's chintz, though vintage floral is making a comeback too) Geometric patterns with soft edges rather than hard lines — hand-drawn quality rather than computer-precise Subtle tone-on-tone patterns that add dimension without screaming for attention The scale of pattern matters relative to your room size. Large patterns work in spacious living rooms with high ceilings. Smaller, denser patterns work better in compact spaces where large-scale designs might overwhelm. If you're mixing patterns between curtains and other room elements, keep a common color thread. Your curtains don't need to match your throw pillows exactly (please don't do that — it's too matchy), but they should share at least one color to create cohesion. Grommet Panels for Modern, Easy Functionality Grommet curtains — the ones with metal rings at the top that slide directly onto the rod — are the most contemporary hanging style. They create even, consistent folds and they're stupid easy to open and close. Just grab and slide. No fumbling with hooks or fighting with the fabric. The hardware becomes part of the design. Matte black grommets with a black rod look sleek and modern. Brushed brass or bronze grommets add warmth. Chrome if you're going for that crisp, cool aesthetic (though chrome feels a bit dated compared to other finishes right now). Grommets work with most fabric weights, though very heavy velvet or thick lined curtains might slide less smoothly than lighter materials. For maximum ease of operation, pair grommets with a thicker rod (1.5-2 inches diameter) that provides less friction. The downside: grommets are visible. They're part of the look. If you prefer hardware that disappears, rod pocket or back tab styles hide better. Rod Pocket or Back Tab for a Softer, Traditional Look Rod pocket curtains slide onto the rod through a sewn pocket at the top. This completely hides the hardware and creates a gathered, slightly ruffled heading. Back tab curtains use fabric loops sewn to the back of the panel. From the front, you see only fabric. From the side, those loops fold over the rod for an architectural detail that's subtle but refined. Both styles feel more traditional than grommets — softer, less industrial. They work particularly well with wooden curtain rods or decorative finials that you want to showcase. The gathered look at the top adds visual softness, which complements traditional or transitional living room styles. Not ideal if you're going for stark modern minimalism, but perfect for spaces with classic furniture, layered textures, or farmhouse influences. These styles are slightly less convenient to open and close than grommets — more friction, more resistance — but the aesthetic trade-off is worth it if you prefer that softer appearance. Blackout Curtains Without the Obvious Blackout Look Blackout curtains used to mean thick, plasticky fabric in unfortunate colors. Not anymore. Modern blackout curtains use a thin layer of light-blocking material sandwiched between decorative outer fabric and a backing. From the room side, they look like normal curtains — linen, velvet, cotton, whatever. But they block 90-95% of light. This is useful even in living rooms where you're not sleeping. Reduces glare on TV screens. Protects furniture and flooring from UV fading. Provides better privacy at night. Improves temperature control because the extra layer insulates against heat loss in winter and heat gain in summer. Look for "blackout-lined" rather than "blackout fabric." The lining approach gives you aesthetic options on the exterior fabric while maintaining the light-blocking functionality. Some blackout curtains also have thermal properties — extra insulation beyond just light blocking. If your living room has single-pane windows or gets uncomfortably cold in winter, thermal blackout curtains actually make a noticeable difference in comfort and heating costs. Extra Wide Panels to Minimize Visual Breaks Standard curtain panels are usually 50-54 inches wide. If you have a wide window or sliding door, you might need two or three panels per side, which creates multiple seams and breaks in the fabric. Extra wide panels (100-120 inches) reduce those breaks. One panel per side instead of two creates cleaner lines and a more luxurious appearance. This especially matters with patterned curtains where seams interrupt the design flow. With solid colors it's less critical but still creates a more refined look. The trade-off: extra wide panels are heavier and more expensive. And when you wash them, you're dealing with larger, bulkier fabric. But the visual impact usually justifies the hassle. If your rod is 120 inches and you want proper fullness, you'd need 240-300 inches of total curtain width. With standard 50-inch panels, that's 5-6 panels total. With 100-inch panels, you only need 3. Fewer seams, cleaner look. Ceiling-Mounted Tracks for Floor-to-Ceiling Windows If you've got those dramatic floor-to-ceiling windows or sliding glass doors, traditional wall-mounted rods sometimes don't work geometrically — there's no wall space above the window. Ceiling-mounted curtain tracks solve this. The hardware mounts directly to the ceiling, and curtains hang straight down, covering the entire window height. This approach also works well in modern spaces where you want the hardware to disappear. Recessed ceiling tracks are completely hidden — you see only the curtain fabric, creating a very clean, architectural effect. Hospital curtains and room dividers use this same track system, and it's increasingly being adopted residentially for its flexibility and minimalist aesthetic. The curtains glide open and close smoothly, and because the track can curve, you can use this system around bay windows or curved walls where a straight rod won't work. Installation is more complex than a standard rod — you're drilling into the ceiling, possibly into joists for proper support. Might be worth hiring someone unless you're comfortable with that level of DIY.

You know, I've been doing interior design for years, and the question of curtains and walls arises with every client. Absolutely everyone. Someone plays it safe and buys beige to beige, someone takes a risk - and then cannot understand why the room looks "somehow wrong". And all because color is a much more complicated thing than it seems at first glance. So you sit with a catalog of curtains, look at the wall, and it seems - this fits. And then for some reason it doesn't fit. And the point is not that you have no taste (although some clients believe this), but that no one has explained the basic things. Which I will try to explain now. Why it is important (but not as difficult as it seems) The first thing a person sees when entering a room is the overall impression of the space. Not individual objects, not details, but the impression itself. And if the curtains clash with the walls, the impression will be... strange. Not necessarily bad, but strange. Guests won't be able to tell what's wrong, but they will feel uncomfortable. The most common mistake is to buy everything separately. First, you paint the walls, a month later you buy a sofa, and six months later you order curtains online, seeing them only in the photo. And then you wonder why nothing goes together. Because each element lives its own life, and together they don't create harmony. The second mistake is to trust too much what the color looks like in the store. The lighting in the curtain salon and the lighting in your apartment are two different realities. What seemed soft beige in the store may become dirty yellow at home. Or vice versa.What really affects the perception of color? Lighting (natural and artificial), the direction of your windows, the color of the floor, furniture, even what light bulbs you have - warm or cold. All of this changes how the color of the curtains looks in relation to the walls. And this is not a theory - this is what I encounter every time I enter someone's apartment. Undertones are the basis of everything Here I will now say things that everything depends on, but which 90% of people ignore.Undertone is the shade that is hidden "under" the main color. Your beige wall is not just beige. It is beige with a pink undertone. Or with yellow. Or with gray. Or - and this is the worst option - with green. Warm shades are based on yellow, red, orange. Cold ones - blue, green. And if you hang curtains with a cold undertone on a wall with a warm undertone, even if the "main" colors seem to match - there will be discomfort. Visual dissonance. How to determine the undertone of your wall? Take a white sheet of paper (white, not cream) and put it against the wall. See what shade appears compared to pure white. Does the wall become yellowish? Warm undertone. Bluish or grayish? Cold. Greenish? I sympathize, this is a difficult case. Why are there different "beiges"? Because beige is not a color, it is a category. There is beige that goes into pink (often in old Soviet apartments after renovation). There is beige with yellowness (the most common, it is also called "ivory" or "cream"). There is beige with a gray undertone (fashionable now, it is also called "grey" - grey + beige). And they all need different curtains. An example of conflicting undertones is a classic of the genre: gray walls with a blue undertone plus cream curtains with a yellow undertone. It seems that gray and cream are neutral, should work. It doesn’t work. It looks dirty. I had clients in New York, even before the move, who did exactly that. Expensive linen curtains, beautiful paint on the walls – but together they created a feeling of something unhealthy. Changed the curtains to ones with a barely noticeable gray-blue tint – the room came to life. Rule number one, if rules are possible at all: undertones first, then color. Three Basic Combination Strategies There are three approaches that almost always work. And then there are variations. Monochrome approach (one color family) Blue walls - curtains are also blue, but darker. Or lighter. Or exactly the same, but with a different texture. This is the safest option, because you stay in the same color family, and conflict is almost impossible. Almost. Because if your walls are a rich turquoise, and you hang the curtains in dark blue - you can create too much visual weight on the windows. They will start to dominate. Which is fine, if that's your intention. But most people don't want the curtains to be the first thing that catches your eye. The key to the monochromatic approach is to create enough contrast so that the curtains don't disappear, but not so much that they clash with the walls. I usually recommend a difference of at least two tones on those paint sample tapes they give you at hardware stores. You know, there are seven variations of "gray" that look the same in the store, but completely different at home. Texture helps tremendously. The same color, but the walls are matte, and the curtains are silk with a slight sheen? Quite different. The walls are smooth, and the curtains are linen with that beautiful natural "pattern" of fibers? It works even with an almost identical color.I made a bedroom with dark gray walls and the same dark gray velvet curtains. It would seem that darkness on darkness should be difficult. But the velvet caught the light in a special way, changed the shade depending on the angle, created depth. It turned out not oppressive, but enveloping. Cozy. Neutral bridge (neutral curtains + colored walls) This is what I advise people who are nervous. Colored walls – any color you want – and curtains in white, cream, beige, gray or taupe (it’s a gray-brown, if anyone doesn’t know). Neutrals don’t conflict by definition. But – and here’s where the fun begins – which neutral matters. It really matters.White curtains with warm walls (peach, terracotta, warm yellow, red) – great, as a rule. White curtains with cool walls (blue, green, purple) – can work, but risks looking too stark, cold. Maybe cream is better, but then we’re back to undertones again, because the wrong cream will make everything yellowish. Gray is everywhere now – it’s been everywhere for about ten years, to be honest, I’m a little tired of gray, but what is there is there – and gray curtains are incredibly versatile. They work with almost everything. The problem is that gray changes depending on the environment. The so-called simultaneous contrast. Gray curtains can look bluish against blue walls. Brownish against beige walls. This can be both good and annoying, depending on the situation. I did a bedroom once with deep charcoal walls (the clients wanted "mood"), and we used pale warm gray curtains. They would have looked boring on their own. Against a dark wall? They glowed. They softened the entire space just enough to make it feel like you could sleep there, not like you were in a cave. Contrasting accent (curtains as a bright element) This is for people with confidence. Or for those who hired people like me because they themselves are not confident, but want the result. Walls of the same color, curtains of the opposite color on the color wheel. Or at least contrasting. Blue walls, gold curtains. Green walls, rusty orange curtains. Purple walls, yellow curtains (bold, very bold, can be overwhelming or disastrous depending on the shades). The trick here is that one of the colors needs to be muted, otherwise everything will vibrate with energy and you will never relax. You can do rich walls with much softer curtains. Or vice versa - soft walls with rich diamond curtains that become the focal point.I tend to do this in living rooms and dining rooms. Less so in bedrooms, unless you are a real maximalist. Something about trying to fall asleep while your peripheral vision processes color contrast doesn't work for everyone. One point about complementary colors: they make each other more intense. Blue and orange together? Each looks more blue and more orange than it does separately. So if you are testing swatches, you need to see them together. Don't just imagine. Don't rely on visualization. Glue that piece of fabric directly to the wall and live with it for a few days. White Walls – Simpler Doesn’t Mean Easier Everyone thinks white walls are simple. No. White has more variations than any other color, and they’re all deceptively different. There’s pure bright white. Soft white. Warm white. Cool white. White with a gray undertone. White with a beige undertone. White with a pink undertone. And they all require different approaches to curtains. Bright cool white can go with almost anything, but it makes everything richer and more intense. Your pale blue curtains will look more blue. Cream curtains may appear more yellow than you expected. It’s a high-contrast backdrop. Warm whites (those whites that lean a bit towards cream or ivory) are friendlier. They soften other colors rather than intensify them. Warm white walls with any color of curtains create a more cozy atmosphere than cold white with the same curtains. I did an apartment where everything was painted "Swiss Coffee" - this is such a very popular warm white. Linen curtains in the natural color of oatmeal - and it was... perfect. Chef-kiss, as they say. The warmth suited, the textures complemented each other, the overall effect was so organic and relaxed. Against stark white walls it would look completely different. If you have white walls and you don't know what curtains - take natural linen or soft cream. This is the case when it's hard to go wrong. Dark walls - new rules of the game Dark walls are experiencing a renaissance, and people are still figuring out how to work with them. Dark walls - navy, charcoal, forest green, deep burgundy, black - create drama. They also absorb light, so your choice of curtains affects not only the aesthetics but also the actual brightness of the room. Light curtains against dark walls: High contrast, the curtains become architectural elements, they frame the windows in a strong way. This is great if your windows are beautifully shaped and you want to emphasize them. Less great if your windows are awkwardly shaped or if you want them to visually recede into the background. Dark curtains against dark walls: Monochrome, gloomy, cocoon-like. Can look incredibly sophisticated or can feel cave-like. Depends on the size of the room, the natural light and, honestly, your tolerance for darkness. I like this look in media rooms or bedrooms where you want that enveloping feeling. In a north-facing living room? Maybe too much. Mid-tone curtains against dark walls: A compromise. You get a little contrast without being harsh. Charcoal walls with slate blue curtains. Navy walls with dusty lilac. Forest green with sage. One thing I will say: don’t be afraid of dark walls. Everyone thinks they’ll make a room look smaller. Sometimes they do the opposite – they make the walls recede and the room feel more expansive because your eye isn’t reaching out as much. But you have to be extra careful when choosing curtains, because mistakes are more noticeable against a dark background. Pattern: When and How Pattern on curtains is a game changer. Small patterns on curtains work best with plain walls or very subtle wall textures. Large patterns need more wall space to make sense – you don’t want giant flowers in a room with windows every meter or so, because you’ll never see a complete repeat of the pattern. It’ll just look chaotic. If your walls have any pattern at all – wallpaper, stencil, whatever – you need to be very careful with the pattern on your curtains. You usually want one thing to be solid. Two patterns in the same space can work, but it requires a real sense of scale and style. A small geometric pattern on the wall with a large organic pattern on the curtains, or vice versa. But patterns of similar scale competing with each other? A headache. I’ve had a few clients install this gorgeous soft grey wallpaper. They looked beautiful, they looked beautiful on the wall. They bought striped and white curtains – expensive, real linen, beautiful drapery. They hung them up, and the room looked… sick. Seriously sick. It turned out that the gray had a blue undertone and the cream had a yellow undertone, and the combination created this weird dirty effect in the natural light from their east-facing windows. We switched to curtains with just a hint of blue-gray in them, and suddenly the whole room came alive. Stripes on curtains are a classic for a reason. Vertical stripes literally draw the eye up, make ceilings feel higher. They work with most wall colors because stripes usually include a neutral plus an accent color, and you can choose stripes where the accent color ties into your walls. Texture and Sheen The fabric of a curtain is not just about the color, it’s also about how the fabric reflects light. Matte linen looks completely different than dupioni silk, even though they are technically the same color. Silk has that delicate sheen that catches the light, changes appearance depending on the angle, adds richness. Linen is flat, organic, laid-back. With shiny or semi-gloss walls (high-gloss paint or even a satin finish), you need to consider whether you want the curtains to match that formality. Shiny walls with matte linen curtains? Could be an interesting contrast of textures. Shiny walls with silk or satin curtains? Very formal, very polished, very "this is an intentionally designer space."Matte walls (which are most walls) are more forgiving. Any curtain finish works. Velvet curtains are in a category of their own. Velvet has this quality where a color looks different depending on how the light hits the pile – it can appear lighter or darker, with slightly different shades. Velvet also absorbs light, making colors richer and deeper. If you’re making velvet curtains, I usually recommend going a shade or two lighter than you think because they will read darker when they’re up. I had a small living room with soft plum walls – the client wanted a luxurious look. Velvet curtains in a matching plum color would have created too much heaviness. We went two shades lighter than the wall, in the same velvet. The effect was chic and wealthy, but not oppressive. Lighting and directions Morning light is cool and bluish. Evening light is warm and golden. The color of your curtains will look different at different times of day, and that’s okay and good. But it does mean you need to test your curtain samples at different times of day, not just once at noon when the light is neutral. East-facing windows get morning light. Warm curtains will glow beautifully here at dawn. Cool curtains can look a little washed out. West-facing windows get evening light. This is where warm curtains really shine (literally). That golden hour hits amber, rust, or coral curtains and makes them look incredible.North-facing windows get consistent but cool light all day long. Blues and greens work beautifully here because they match the quality of the light. Warm colors can feel a little off unless you’re intentionally going for that contrast. South-facing windows get the most light, and it’s relatively neutral. Almost any color of drapery will work, which is both a blessing and a curse because you have no constraints to guide your decision. Test your swatches several times throughout the day. Seriously. Tape that piece of fabric to the window and look at it morning, afternoon, evening, night with artificial light on. If a color irritates you at one point, it will irritate you every day at that point. Find something that works in all lighting conditions. Room size and ceiling height Light curtains in a small room: makes the room feel bigger because light colors recede visually. They don’t create boundaries. Dark curtains in a small room: can make it feel even smaller unless the walls are also dark and you’re intentionally going for a cozy cocoon effect. Light curtains in a large room: safe, but can feel sluggish if the room needs more visual anchoring. Dark curtains in a large room: adds weight and grounds the space. Can be really effective in making a huge room feel more intimate. Regarding ceiling height: if you want the ceilings to feel higher, match the curtains to the walls (they don’t create a visual gap) or use vertical stripes. If you want to emphasize the height of the ceiling and have high ceilings, use contrasting curtains to draw attention to that vertical space. I had a tiny bedroom once – the ceiling is a standard 2.5 metres, but the room was narrow. We matched the curtains to the walls almost exactly (a monochromatic approach) and it made the boundaries less obvious. The room didn’t get bigger, but it felt less cramped because your eye wasn’t stuck where the walls ended and the curtains began.

The choice of tulle color is often reduced to the obvious: “classic white, because it's neutral.” But in practice, the shade, texture, and degree of contrast with the rest of the interior greatly affect how the kitchen is perceived as a whole. Carefully selected tulle can emphasize the style and neatly tie together the furniture, apron, countertop, and floor, or it can stand out from the overall color scheme and create a feeling of chaos or randomness. Light shades: maximum airiness and visual expansion of space White, milky, and slightly cream-colored tulle are classics that almost always work. These shades reflect light well, create a feeling of cleanliness and freshness, visually expand the space, and do not draw attention to themselves, leaving the main role to the furniture and architecture of the room. For small kitchens with modest natural window lighting, this is often the best choice: light, bright tulle helps to preserve precious rays of light even on cloudy days. At the same time, there are many nuances within the “light” category. Cool white can complement an interior with gray, graphite, and concrete surfaces, but it will look too harsh in warm kitchens with beige and wood tones. Milky and ivory, on the contrary, gently emphasize the warmth of wood, sandy tones, latte, and light stone, making the interior softer and more “lived-in.” It is important to choose a shade not in isolation from the kitchen, but in conjunction with the existing colors. Light tulle also makes it easier to change the decor. If, after a while, you want to change the textiles — pillows, tablecloth, rug — or add an accent color to the tableware, light neutral tulle will not conflict with the new additions. This is a convenient option for those who like to occasionally update their interior without major renovations. Pastel tones: soft support for the overall color scheme Pastel shades — powder, beige, light gray, smoky blue, muted green — help to slightly emphasize the mood of the interior without making the tulle the center of attention. This option is appropriate if the kitchen is already decorated in a certain color scheme and you want the window to fit in with the overall look rather than stand out. Pastel tulle acts as a soft filter: it slightly colors the light, creating a characteristic tinted background in the room. For example, light gray tulle will look good in a kitchen with gray facades, concrete textures, or black accents. Powder and beige are ideal for interiors with wooden elements, warm light, and soft lines. A smoky blue or slightly green shade can beautifully accentuate a kitchen with white furniture and natural wood, adding a feeling of freshness and a light natural touch. It is important not to overload the palette. If there is already a lot of color in the interior — a bright apron, rich facades, noticeable decor — it is better to leave the tulle more subdued, otherwise the space will begin to feel “noisy.” A pastel shade is good because it sets the mood but does not require all other details to match it. Accent colors and textural solutions: when tulle can play the leading role Sometimes it is tulle that becomes the element that brings the whole kitchen together or adds character to it. This is possible if the rest of the interior is fairly restrained: facades without excessive details, a neutral apron, laconic handles, and a minimum of decor. In this case, tulle in a rich or deeper shade — olive, graphite, terracotta, rich blue — can work as a visual accent and set the tone for the entire space. Accent tulle should be chosen with particular care. Not only is the beauty of the shade itself important here, but also its interaction with light. It will look one way during the day and another in the evening with warm lighting. The density of the fabric also matters: denser tulle in a rich color can darken the kitchen a little, but it adds a feeling of intimacy and comfort, especially if the windows face bright sunlight. Textured solutions — embroidery, jacquard patterns, light ornamentation, vertical stripes, or geometric shapes — fit organically into classic, Provencal, and neoclassical interiors, as well as modern ones, if the ornamentation is kept within the bounds of minimalism. It is important to maintain balance: if the apron, countertop, and furniture already have a pronounced pattern, it is better to choose a calm tulle. If everything else is as neutral as possible, it is tulle with a delicate pattern that can add depth and individuality.